cbidds400
Oct 10 2009, 12:19 PM
so ive been shooting my recurve for a few years. im now comfortable enough to take it in the woods with me hunting but the only thing ive shot threw it is field 100 grain field points. it has a 40# draw. was wondering if anybody could give me an idea of a good broadhead to use with my bow for whitetails. i use mechanicals on my compound. not sure if i should use the same for the recurve. any suggestions would be great.
thanks
wdkoepke
Oct 10 2009, 02:58 PM
QUOTE(cbidds400 @ Oct 10 2009, 01:19 PM)

so ive been shooting my recurve for a few years. im now comfortable enough to take it in the woods with me hunting but the only thing ive shot threw it is field 100 grain field points. it has a 40# draw. was wondering if anybody could give me an idea of a good broadhead to use with my bow for whitetails. i use mechanicals on my compound. not sure if i should use the same for the recurve. any suggestions would be great.
thanks
i've heard that heavy, 2 blade fixed blade broadheads are best for recurve.
konrad
Oct 10 2009, 03:33 PM
After reading (extensively) the internet and Dr. Ashby’s reports, I decided to start with Magnus 2-bladed Stinger broadheads.
They got mounted last night and shot this evening.
Was I impressed!
I had to stop shooting them at the 40 yard mark for fear – justified- of arrow damage (too many funny sounds $$$).
No tinkering, no…NONE…nada, sight adjustments whatsoever.
Pity those unsuspecting ungulates.
Uncle Ted knows whereof he speaketh.
Juggernaut
Oct 10 2009, 10:06 PM
You do not want to shoot expandables with that low of draw weight.
cory d stroyer
Oct 10 2009, 10:12 PM
shoot fixed blades
konrad
Oct 11 2009, 01:46 PM
Broadhead Selection:
No matter what the industry advertising folks will tell you, the single most important part of your bowhunting setup is the business end of the arrow…your broadhead point.
It matters little if you are able to use one pin to sight out to 100 yards and your arrow is still traveling at 300 feet per second if, when your arrow arrives, your broadhead has no ability to penetrate through hair, skin, muscle (where I come from we call it moosle), bone (ribs, scapulae, tibia, etc.) and then critically damage the circulatory system contained within and supplying vital organs. The broadhead must retain its sharpness while cutting, its shape (bent points reduce penetration dramatically), not be easily deflected in its path (it won’t do you any good to properly place your shot only to have the darned thing skittering off into the weeds or worse, the paunch) and it must be able to penetrate bone.
This final requirement is critical to your success. There are few “Big Game” animals that do not sport skeletons supporting moosle and protecting the vital organs. No, carp don’t count as big game.
Good broadhead design is based on physics proven by centuries of field experience.
The cutting edges of a broadhead are simple machines…inclined planes. The more dramatic the angle of incidence, the more energy is required for the edge to continue forward in its path (i.e. it takes more energy to climb a steep set of stairs than a gradually rising ramp). Many of the founders of modern bowhunting believed a three-to-one ratio was the optimum angle for efficient use of an arrow’s energy. That three-to-one represents for every one inch of cutting diameter, there should be three inches of broadhead length.
More resent studies, provided by one Dr. Ed Ashby; conclusively prove a two cutting edged head requires less energy to penetrate all of the tissues encountered in big game targets. Not only will two bladed heads penetrate fleshy tissue better than three or four bladed heads but when it comes to bone, the two bladed heads stand head-and-shoulders (no pun intended) above the other designs.
One of the other important features proven to be paramount in head design is the cutting edge itself. A single bevel has a MUCH greater advantage when it comes to splitting bone and passing through fleshy tissues. As the edge encounters resistance, the head turns requiring less force to travel forward.
Now, it’s up to you to try to find a commercially offered product that will work with your set up. This year, I settled upon the Magnus Stinger, two blade head.
I find it interesting that many compound archers will suggest a two-bladed head for “low poundage or traditional archers” but won’t follow what they know works themselves???
carolinaslayer
Oct 15 2009, 10:57 PM
good info i was just about to post the same...now i kno i made a good choice with my broadheads now i just gotta find a critter to stick em in....
270sav4deer
Oct 15 2009, 11:14 PM
Rage makes a 2 blade 40KE broadhead 1.5 cut its made for bows with less then 40lbs of kinetic energy
2050z
Oct 24 2009, 08:45 AM
I am shoot 125 grain cut on contact broadhead and 210 grain broadhead when hunting with my recurves.
GreeneCoDeerKiller
Oct 24 2009, 09:09 AM
Anything that Magnus has out is good, the stinger flies great, the original is another good one. I would just get on 3rivers archery and play around and find one that you like. Also the snuffer style heads aren't bad either.
Zigman
Nov 4 2009, 08:12 PM
QUOTE(GreeneCoDeerKiller @ Oct 24 2009, 09:09 AM)

Anything that Magnus has out is good, the stinger flies great, the original is another good one. I would just get on 3rivers archery and play around and find one that you like. Also the snuffer style heads aren't bad either.
x2!
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